Surf Lessons: The Great White Shark
The fascinating thing about sharing a life with one of these ……Is that they don’t seem to get too concerned about one of these.
That’s a 10-12 ft great white shark spotted in Encinitas a year ago. A buddy claims he saw one just like it in the early evening at our local break the other day. My guy, the shaka guy, who’s planning to surf the next morning, gets a little bit of a concerned look on his face. He takes a deep breath, mostly for dramatic effect. He thinks for a second, and then with a most serious demeanor tells me that he’ll only go out if it’s not flat. WOW…is that supposed to be some sort of concession? Presented like a sacrifice. Do you get that? They ONLY go surfing if it’s NOT FLAT!! No waves, no surf! The shark element only adds a moment of pause. It doesn’t affect anything.
Surfing is like an addiction. Because of it, a friend’s wife went so far as to proclaim that surfing is evil. They’re not married anymore. The risk management skills go out the door and the crazy living takes over! I was so happy when he came home safe that morning, hair still dripping with salt water. “You know”, he said. “If I worried about sharks I’d never go in the water.” He’s right and I wouldn’t want it any other way! Just glad he still has all his parts.
As soon as I finished typing this post, I saw the fresh news of a bodyboarder, David Lilienfeld, in South Africa that was killed by a great white. As I read the article, ironically, I saw this quote from his Dad.
“This was his life, and he died doing what he loved.”
And that’s why I added this post! Do what you love!